Japanese Samurai in Traditional Black and Gold Attire

# ULTRA-STRICT JAPAN 15TH-CENTURY HISTORICAL PORTRAIT RECREATION PROMPT
## Exact Reference Composition + Exact Wardrobe + Exact Environment + User Identity Lock + 3:4 Vertical

Create an **ultra-photorealistic, museum-quality historical reconstruction photograph** of a man in **15th-century Japan**, recreating the supplied reference image as closely as technically possible.

The supplied reference image is the **ONLY AND ABSOLUTE SOURCE OF TRUTH** for:

- clothing and layering
- garment colors
- garment patterns
- fabric appearance
- hairstyle
- body pose
- hand positions
- accessories
- sword placement
- footwear
- architecture
- Japanese garden
- rocks and gravel
- trees and vegetation
- background depth
- subject placement
- camera angle
- camera distance
- framing
- crop
- lighting
- shadows
- depth of field
- overall color grading
- historical atmosphere
- bottom-left text placement

The **ONLY element that may change is the man's identity**, which must come from the user-uploaded photograph.

Use a strict **3:4 vertical portrait composition**.

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IMPORTANT — ASK-FIRST WORKFLOW
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Before generating, check whether the user has uploaded **one clear photograph of themselves with their entire face clearly visible**.

A suitable identity photograph should clearly show:

- forehead
- hairline
- eyebrows
- both eyes
- nose
- lips
- cheeks
- jawline
- chin
- ears where possible
- natural skin tone

If a suitable user photograph has NOT been uploaded:

# STOP. DO NOT GENERATE THE IMAGE.

Respond only:

**“Please upload one clear photo of yourself with your face clearly visible.”**

Do not invent a face.
Do not approximate the user's appearance.
Do not use the reference man's identity.
Do not substitute a random AI-generated person.

Once the user photograph is supplied, use it as the **ONLY identity reference**.

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HIGHEST PRIORITY — ABSOLUTE USER IDENTITY LOCK
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The finished man must unmistakably be the person from the uploaded user photograph.

Preserve the user's real facial identity with extremely high accuracy, including:

- exact face shape
- forehead proportions
- natural hairline
- eyebrow shape, thickness, and spacing
- eye shape and spacing
- eyelid structure
- nose bridge, width, tip, and nostril structure
- lip shape and proportions
- cheek structure
- cheekbone placement
- jaw width
- jawline
- chin shape
- ear proportions
- skin tone
- natural facial asymmetry
- natural age
- characteristic facial proportions

Do NOT beautify the user.

Do NOT make the face younger or older.

Do NOT narrow or widen the face.

Do NOT enlarge the eyes.

Do NOT sharpen or reshape the jaw.

Do NOT change the nose.

Do NOT change the lips.

Do NOT change ethnicity.

Do NOT replace the user's features with generic Japanese facial features.

The historical clothing and hairstyle must be fitted naturally around the **user's real head and facial anatomy**.

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CRITICAL — NO PASTED / ATTACHED FACE EFFECT
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The result must NOT look like a face swap or a different head pasted onto the reference body.

Integrate the user's identity naturally into the complete person.

The following must be anatomically continuous and believable:

- head size
- skull proportions
- neck width
- neck length
- jaw-to-neck transition
- shoulders
- body proportions
- skin tone
- lighting direction
- facial shadows
- ambient reflections
- depth of field
- photographic grain
- perspective

The head must belong naturally to the body.

Match the reference man's approximate body build and posture while preserving the user's recognizable identity.

Use realistic pores, fine facial texture, subtle imperfections, natural under-eye structure and believable skin highlights.

No plastic skin.
No excessive smoothing.
No artificial beauty filter.
No cutout edges around the head.
No mismatched face/body lighting.

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FACIAL DIRECTION & EXPRESSION
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Recreate the reference expression closely.

The man stands calmly and confidently with:

- head almost perfectly upright
- face directed almost straight toward the camera
- eyes looking directly toward the camera
- neutral serious expression
- lips naturally closed
- relaxed forehead
- controlled, dignified presence
- no smile
- no exaggerated emotion

Do not create a dramatic side profile.

The face must remain clearly visible.

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HAIRSTYLE
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Recreate the visible historical hairstyle from the reference:

- dark black hair
- swept backward away from the forehead
- neatly controlled side hair
- compact traditional topknot/bun high toward the rear/top of the head
- subtle natural loose hairs
- historically grounded appearance

The hairstyle should adapt naturally to the user's real hairline and skull.

Do not alter the user's facial identity to accommodate the hairstyle.

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ABSOLUTE WARDROBE LOCK
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Reproduce the reference clothing as closely as possible.

Do NOT redesign, modernize, simplify, recolor, or reinterpret the garments.

The outfit consists of a historically inspired layered Japanese samurai/aristocratic ensemble.

### INNER LAYER

Visible pale ivory/off-white inner kimono collar crossing naturally at the chest.

The collar must retain:

- same visible width
- same overlap
- same off-white tone
- same layered relationship

### OUTER ROBE

Recreate the loose, wide-sleeved outer robe exactly in appearance:

- muted weathered olive-brown / khaki-brown tone
- subtle historical woven/brocade appearance
- understated repeating traditional motifs
- aged natural textile appearance
- large flowing sleeves
- broad body
- naturally heavy drape
- pale narrow trim around visible sleeve edges
- realistic folds caused by gravity

Do not turn this into a modern kimono.

Do not brighten the fabric.

Do not use shiny costume satin.

The cloth should look like authentic woven natural fiber photographed in real daylight.

### WHITE CORD DETAILS

Preserve the long pale cords running vertically from the upper chest area with tassel-like ends.

Maintain approximately the same:

- number
- length
- position
- thickness
- off-white tone
- hanging direction

### WAIST

Recreate the layered pale cloth belts/sashes around the waist.

Preserve:

- multiple wrapped layers
- soft ivory/beige coloring
- natural knots
- dangling tie ends
- same visual thickness
- same placement

### HAKAMA

Recreate the long pleated brown hakama exactly in overall appearance:

- deep earthy brown
- muted weathered coloring
- subtle repeating geometric motifs
- full traditional volume
- long vertical pleats
- natural heavy textile
- ankle-length proportions

The hakama should hang naturally and retain the same silhouette as the reference.

Do not make it narrow trousers.

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SWORD / ACCESSORY
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Include the traditional sheathed sword at the waist exactly where visible in the reference.

It should sit diagonally across the front-left waist region.

Preserve the reference-like:

- sheath direction
- handle position
- scale
- angle
- attachment to sash
- dark brown/black historical finish

Do not create an oversized fantasy sword.

The man's other hand holds the same narrow folded fan-like object seen in the reference.

Maintain approximately the same:

- position
- scale
- angle
- light neutral coloring
- grip

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HAND & BODY POSE LOCK
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Match the reference posture closely.

Subject stands vertically with dignified stillness.

Keep:

- shoulders naturally level
- torso nearly front-facing
- arms lowered
- elbows only slightly bent from robe volume
- one hand hanging near the hip
- opposite hand holding the folded object
- fingers relaxed
- legs naturally underneath the hakama
- weight balanced
- no exaggerated action pose

Do not introduce crossed arms, sword fighting, walking, kneeling, turning, or dramatic gestures.

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FOOTWEAR LOCK
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Recreate the traditional footwear visible at the bottom.

Use:

- white split-toe tabi-style socks
- traditional light straw/neutral sandals
- historically believable construction
- same approximate scale

Both feet should remain naturally visible beneath the hakama.

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BACKGROUND — ABSOLUTE REFERENCE LOCK
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The background must reproduce the supplied reference environment as closely as possible.

Do NOT replace it with a generic Japanese temple.

Do NOT create a random Japanese garden.

Treat the reference image as the literal environment reference.

The man stands immediately beside the entrance/veranda of an old traditional Japanese wooden building.

### RIGHT SIDE

A substantial dark weathered wooden architectural structure occupies the entire right portion of the image.

Include:

- large dark timber post close to camera
- aged brown timber
- visible wood grain
- vertical structural beams
- shadowed doorway/veranda area
- horizontal wooden elements
- authentic historical joinery
- stone foundation near the bottom

The right wooden column should create the same strong vertical visual boundary as the reference.

### GROUND

The foreground consists of irregular grey stone paving.

Include:

- realistic uneven stone slabs
- slight age/weathering
- believable joints
- subtle natural texture

Behind the subject is a traditional dry garden.

Use:

- pale white/cream gravel
- moss patches
- irregular natural rocks
- restrained landscaping

### LEFT BACKGROUND

Include the same impression of:

- mature leafy Japanese trees
- muted green foliage
- yellow-green leaves
- irregular branches
- naturally soft background blur

### MIDDLE BACKGROUND

Recreate the historical compound:

- aged plaster/earthen wall
- dark wooden structural beams
- traditional grey tiled Japanese roof
- layered roof geometry
- subdued historical colors

The roof and garden must sit behind the subject at approximately the same elevations as the reference.

No modern buildings.
No cars.
No signs.
No power cables.
No tourists.
No contemporary objects.
No decorative fantasy architecture.

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COMPOSITION LOCK
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Use **3:4 vertical portrait orientation**.

The man should occupy most of the frame vertically.

Composition approximately:

- head near upper-center
- subject slightly right of horizontal center
- full body visible
- feet visible
- modest headroom
- wooden architecture framing the right side
- garden opening across the left
- body filling roughly 75–85% of image height

Do not crop:

- head
- topknot
- hands
- sword
- hakama hem
- feet

Keep the same calm full-body historical portrait feeling.

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CAMERA LOCK
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Reproduce the photographic perspective of the reference.

Use approximately:

- professional full-frame DSLR / mirrorless camera rendering
- 70–85 mm portrait lens appearance
- camera near lower-chest/upper-waist height
- almost straight-on viewing direction
- natural human perspective
- no ultra-wide distortion
- no fisheye
- no dramatic low angle
- no overhead view

Camera distance must allow the complete standing figure to fit naturally while retaining realistic facial detail.

Keep architecture geometrically believable with straight vertical lines.

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DEPTH OF FIELD
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Use realistic moderate/shallow depth of field.

The subject must be sharply focused.

Important wardrobe textures must remain detailed.

The nearby wooden architecture should retain significant detail.

The distant:

- trees
- garden wall
- tiled roof

may soften gradually with realistic optical blur.

Do NOT create extreme artificial bokeh.

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LIGHTING LOCK
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Match the soft natural daylight of the reference.

Use:

- diffused outdoor daylight
- cloudy/soft-sky quality
- subtle directional illumination from the open garden side
- gentle natural highlights on forehead and cheeks
- restrained contrast
- soft shadows beneath chin and clothing folds
- slightly darker wooden structure on the right

No studio flash.
No dramatic rim light.
No neon lighting.
No cinematic orange-and-teal grading.
No excessive HDR.

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COLOR & MATERIAL RENDERING
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Maintain the subdued historical palette:

- weathered brown
- muted olive
- earthy khaki
- aged dark timber
- warm grey
- pale stone
- off-white gravel
- restrained greens
- ivory fabric details

Preserve realistic material differences between:

- woven robe
- hakama
- cords
- sword
- wood
- stone
- gravel
- roof tiles
- foliage
- skin

Everything should have physically believable surface properties.

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PHOTOREALISM — EXTREME PRIORITY
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The final result must look like an actual photograph of a historically reconstructed 15th-century Japanese man taken on location.

Aim for:

**museum-quality historical reconstruction + premium editorial DSLR photography.**

Include:

- realistic skin pores
- natural facial microtexture
- tiny skin variations
- individual eyebrow hairs
- individual hair strands
- believable cloth weave
- fine fabric fibers
- physically correct cloth folds
- natural hand anatomy
- realistic wood grain
- real stone texture
- authentic gravel
- realistic foliage
- natural lens rendering
- subtle optical depth
- realistic dynamic range

Avoid:

- painting
- illustration
- anime
- concept art
- CGI
- 3D render appearance
- video-game character appearance
- waxy skin
- oversharpening
- AI facial artifacts
- fake fabric
- costume-store appearance

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TEXT LOCK
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Place small elegant historical-style text in the **bottom-left corner**, matching the reference placement.

Line 1:

**Japan**

Line 2:

**15th Century**

Use:

- small refined serif typography
- pale ivory/off-white color
- left aligned
- subtle appearance
- no text box
- no banner
- no modern graphic effects

Keep it unobtrusive and approximately the same size and position as the reference.

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STRICT REFERENCE PRIORITY
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When the written prompt and visible reference image differ in any minor visual detail:

# FOLLOW THE REFERENCE IMAGE.

The reference controls:

1. pose
2. clothing appearance
3. clothing proportions
4. accessory positions
5. hairstyle
6. architecture
7. garden
8. rocks
9. gravel
10. background placement
11. framing
12. camera perspective
13. lighting
14. colors
15. depth of field
16. text placement

The uploaded user photograph controls **identity only**.

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NEGATIVE CONSTRAINTS
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Do not:

- change the user's facial features
- copy the reference man's face
- generate a random face
- make the face look pasted onto another body
- change ethnicity to match the reference
- beautify the user
- alter facial proportions
- change the expression dramatically
- change the pose
- change the clothing design
- change robe colors
- change hakama design
- replace the sword
- add armor
- add helmet
- add modern clothing
- add fantasy samurai armor
- add extra weapons
- add jewelry
- add modern objects
- change the wooden building
- replace the garden
- add cherry blossoms unless actually visible in the reference
- add Mount Fuji
- add torii gates
- add lanterns
- add modern Japanese elements
- change camera position
- use wide-angle distortion
- crop the feet
- crop the topknot
- change image orientation
- remove the bottom-left historical text

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FINAL GENERATION GOAL
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The finished result should feel as though the **same photograph was taken again at the same historical location, with the same wardrobe, same pose, same architecture, same Japanese garden, same camera setup, same lighting, same framing and same atmosphere — but the person standing there is naturally and unmistakably the uploaded user.**

The viewer should NOT think:

“Someone's face was swapped onto a samurai.”

The viewer should think:

**“This is a genuine high-end photograph of this exact person dressed and photographed in a historically reconstructed 15th-century Japanese setting.”**